We have visited The Ritz-Carlton, Abama twice, but in many ways, it feels as though we stayed at two completely different resorts. Our first trip was in late summer 2023. Our daughter wasn’t quite two, I was pregnant with our son, and my parents joined us for a longer, slower vacation. Most of our days revolved around naps, leisurely breakfasts, and finding a comfortable place to sit beside the pool.
We returned three years later with our four-year-old daughter, our two-year-old son, and my husband’s parents. This time, we stayed for five nights, our daughter was old enough to attend Ritz Kids, and our son spent most of the week following his sister through the gardens.
The resort itself was much as we remembered it: terraced grounds filled with tropical plants, dramatic views over the Atlantic, and the island of La Gomera visible in the distance. Our family, however, had changed completely. That is one of the reasons I love returning to a resort. You notice which details remain special, which conveniences matter more at a new stage of parenting, and how differently your children experience the same place as they grow.
After staying in both the Citadel and The Retreat, eating at every restaurant on the property, and experiencing Abama with two different sets of grandparents, here is everything I would want another family to know before booking.
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What Makes The Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama Different?
The Ritz-Carlton, Abama is not a small or understated hotel. The resort occupies an enormous clifftop estate on Tenerife’s southwest coast, surrounded by banana plantations, subtropical gardens, and a golf course that stretches toward the ocean.
Its scale is one of its defining features. There are multiple pools, several distinct accommodation areas, an extensive restaurant collection, a beach reached by funicular, a spa, golf, boutiques, and enough winding paths that it takes a little time to understand where everything is. Ordinarily, that kind of size can make a family resort feel impersonal. Abama somehow avoids that.
Abama also works particularly well for multigenerational travel. There was enough for our children to do, but the resort never felt as though it had been designed exclusively around them. The grandparents could enjoy the spa, my husband could golf, we could arrange an adult dinner, and everyone could still come together around the pool or over a relaxed meal. It genuinely feels luxurious, but it does not require parents to spend the entire trip apologizing for having children with them. That’s the kind of luxury I think families actually deserve — the real kind, not the kind that makes you feel like you’re inconveniencing everyone else in the lobby.
Getting to The Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama
The Ritz-Carlton, Abama is located in Guía de Isora on Tenerife’s southwest coast, approximately 20 minutes from Tenerife South Airport. The relatively short transfer is a major advantage when traveling with young children. After collecting our luggage, we could be at the resort without losing half a day to another long journey.
As you approach Abama, the road begins climbing through the estate before the main Citadel building appears above the coastline. The resort feels secluded once you arrive, despite being reasonably close to the airport and the busier towns along Costa Adeje.
We handled transportation differently on each trip. During our first, longer stay, we rented a car. It gave us the freedom to explore Tenerife and made sense because we planned to spend several days away from the property. For our second trip, we were only staying five nights and knew we wanted to mostly spend time with the grandparents at the resort. We skipped the rental car and allowed the concierge to arrange our transfers and anything else we needed.
With two children and a shorter itinerary, this was the easier decision for us. We did not miss having a car, and it was one less logistical detail to manage but it did limit what we could see on the island. For a stay of five nights or less, you could comfortably remain at Abama without renting one. For a longer trip, or particularly if this is your first time visiting Tenerife, I would still consider renting a hire car so you can experience more of the island.
Accommodations: The Citadel or The Retreat?
We have now stayed in both of Abama’s main accommodation areas, and the experience is noticeably different depending on which one you choose. Neither is automatically better. The right choice depends on the unique needs of your family and the time of year you visit.
Our First Stay: A Junior Suite in the Citadel
On our first trip, we booked a one-bedroom junior suite in the Citadel, the resort’s large main building. Our daughter slept on a crib in the main living area, and we had plenty of space for three people. At the time, I was pregnant and traveling with a two-year-old, so the room’s location mattered almost as much as its size.
The Citadel places you close to the main breakfast restaurant, several dinner options, the larger pool complex, the lobby, and many of the resort’s activities. That convenience became especially valuable at the end of the day, when even a short additional walk could feel ambitious with a tired toddler. It was also easy for my parents to stop by the room or for everyone to gather without turning it into an event. For families who expect to move back and forth between their room, the pool, breakfast, and Ritz Kids several times each day, the Citadel is the convenient choice.
Our Second Stay: A One-Bedroom in The Retreat
For our second visit, we upgraded to a one-bedroom in The Retreat. The Retreat is a quieter collection of villa-style buildings set apart from the main Citadel. Our room included a pull-out sofa for the children, but the overall experience felt more private and residential.
Retreat guests have access to separate pools that feel closer to a private club than the resort’s main swimming areas. Light food and drinks are available around the pool throughout the day, along with an afternoon snack and a daily cocktail hour.
These inclusions made it easy to spend an unplanned afternoon there. We did not have to gather everyone, pack a bag, and walk back toward the center of the resort every time someone wanted a snack or drink. The atmosphere was peaceful, and it was wonderful to return to after a busy morning. The trade-off is that The Retreat is farther from many of the primary restaurants and family facilities. The distance is not unreasonable, but parents of young children know that the definition of a “short walk” changes dramatically after dinner. Fortunately, some Retreat rooms come with their own golf cart, and there’s also the resort’s train, which runs roughly every 30 minutes between the top reception, the Retreat, and the beach — so in practice, that walk is rarely one you actually have to make.
Breakfast at El Mirador Versus the Citadel
One of the advertised advantages of The Retreat is breakfast at El Mirador, a beautiful restaurant overlooking the Atlantic. We tried it and appreciated the quieter atmosphere and ocean views, but we returned to the main Citadel breakfast every morning for the rest of the trip. The Citadel buffet simply offered more variety and more of the particular foods our children wanted. At this stage of family travel, that made it the easier option. It is helpful to know that staying in The Retreat does not mean you are restricted to breakfast at El Mirador. You can choose based on what works for your family each morning. During busier stretches of the season, I imagine that quieter, more private breakfast option starts to matter a lot more.
Which Would I Book Again?
For an adult trip, a vacation with older children, or a stay centered around privacy and relaxation, I would choose The Retreat. The private pool and included food and drinks create a genuine upgrade.
With two young children, however, I would probably return to the Citadel and request the family room (two adjoining rooms). The extra convenience would outweigh the quieter setting for us. Being able to shorten the journey between the room, breakfast, Ritz Kids, and dinner matters when every outing involves shoes, sunscreen, water bottles, and at least one child suddenly deciding they can no longer walk.
The Retreat felt more exclusive. The Citadel made family life easier. If we went back during the busiest weeks of the season, though, I might change my answer — having a quiet pool to retreat to when the rest of the resort is packed sounds like a genuine luxury of its own.
Dining at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama
Dining is one of the strongest reasons to choose Abama, particularly for a longer stay.
Across our two trips, we managed to eat at every restaurant on the property. There was enough variety that we never felt as though we were repeating the same evening, even when we stayed entirely within the resort. Reservations are worth arranging in advance, particularly during busy periods. Some restaurants are much more relaxed with young children than others, but we consistently felt welcomed as a family. A few of our favorites are below.
M.B.
During our first trip, my husband and I celebrated our anniversary at M.B., the resort’s two-Michelin-starred restaurant from chef Martín Berasategui. My parents watched our daughter, giving us a rare evening alone before our son arrived. M.B. is a true tasting-menu experience — the kind of dinner that encourages you to slow down and pay attention to every course. It is not the choice if you want to bring two small children, but it is absolutely worth arranging childcare for if a special dinner is part of your vacation.
We love resorts that allow us to enjoy family time without giving up every adult experience. Having a restaurant of this caliber on the property made our anniversary feel like a proper occasion without requiring us to travel elsewhere.
Verona
Verona, the Italian restaurant, was the unanimous favorite among the children on both trips. It became one of the easiest choices when everyone was tired and we wanted a meal we knew would work. The food was approachable enough for young children without making the adults feel as though we had sacrificed a good dinner. When traveling with grandparents and two little ones, a restaurant where everyone leaves happy is sometimes more valuable than the most elaborate meal of the week.
El Mirador
El Mirador may have the most memorable setting at Abama. The restaurant sits near the edge of the cliffs, with expansive Atlantic views and a large outdoor garden and terrace where children have more freedom to move around than they do in a formal dining room.
One evening, the entertainment included a ritual in which guests wrote a wish on a small piece of paper and then burned it after watching a beautiful performance on the summer solstice. Our daughter was fascinated by the entire process. It was the kind of experience that could have felt overly organized or difficult with children, but instead it became one of the evenings we still talk about. It was very similar to Noche de San Juan — one of the Canary Islands’ biggest traditions, celebrated especially in Guía de Isora, right where Abama sits.
Every June 23rd, bonfires line the beaches across the islands to welcome the summer solstice, and the tradition is built around exactly what we saw: writing down a wish, or whatever you’re ready to leave behind, and burning it as the fire takes hold.
Ritz Kids at The Ritz-Carlton Tenerife, Abama
Ritz Kids is complimentary for hotel guests between the ages of four and twelve and operates from 10:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. Younger children can participate alongside a parent, but they cannot be left independently until age four. Our daughter was only two during our first visit, so Ritz Kids did not play a meaningful role in that trip. By the time we returned, she was four and eager to try it. Watching her confidently walk into the club was one of those parenting moments that catches you off guard. On our first visit, she had still been attached to us for most of the day. Three years later, she was ready to disappear into an activity without looking back — and was never particularly pleased when we returned to collect her.
During our second stay, the usual Ritz Kids space was being renovated, and the program had been temporarily moved to the tenth floor of the Citadel. The temporary location was not especially impressive on its own, but the staff and programming mattered far more to our daughter than the room.
The activities extended well beyond basic coloring pages and toys. The program is organized around themed areas that incorporate science, nature, art, theater, and physical play. Children might examine plants or insects with microscopes, learn about the night sky, make bracelets or clay projects, participate in puppet shows, play football, feed the fish, or join a water-balloon activity. Most importantly, the schedule changed enough that our daughter felt she was discovering something new each time.
We did not use Ritz Kids for entire days. A few hours gave her something that belonged entirely to her while allowing us time with our son, an opportunity to visit the spa, or simply a quieter lunch. For the first time at Abama, our vacation did not always require everyone to do the same thing at the same time.
The permanent club — called Club Abami — hadn’t reopened yet during our stay, but it’s worth mentioning anyway, because it looks incredible. Based on the resort’s own renderings, it’s over 300 square meters designed like an underwater world, with an outdoor area that includes its own water slide, a splash pad, and, per the resort, the occasional foam party. We haven’t tried it ourselves yet, but it’s already on our list for the next trip, once our son is old enough to join his sister there.
Life at Abama with Young Children
Ritz Kids was only one part of what kept our children entertained. One of our son’s favorite parts of the entire resort wasn’t one of the pools or even the beach — it was the train that carries guests between the Citadel, The Retreat, and the shoreline. We planned one afternoon around the beach, but he had other ideas. When the train arrived, he happily climbed aboard, and when we reached the beach… he refused to get off. We spent a very short period at the beach before agreeing to ride the train again… and again… It’s funny how often the simplest things become the biggest vacation memories.
There are also koi ponds scattered throughout the grounds that became one of the most reliable highlights of both trips. There is a daily scheduled feeding, but our children wanted to visit the fish whether food was involved or not. Our daughter ran toward the ponds during our second stay with the same excitement she had shown three years earlier. She seemed entirely convinced that the fish remembered her, and we did not feel any need to correct that assumption.
The resort also has several boutiques, one of which sold Disney princess pool floaties. Our daughter approached choosing hers with the seriousness of someone making a major investment decision. She wore them every day for the rest of the trip.
There are also shops that adults will genuinely enjoy. One boutique had some of the best swimwear I have found in years, and I still wish I would have bought another suit before leaving. Most evenings, live music could be heard somewhere around the property. More than once, our children positioned themselves directly in front of the musicians and began dancing as though the performance had been arranged exclusively for them. No one seemed to mind, and that’s exactly the kind of stay we’re looking for — one where our kids get to take up space, instead of shrinking themselves to fit someone else’s version of a vacation.
Pools, the Beach and Resort Activities
Abama offers several different pool experiences, which helps distribute guests across such a large property. The main pool complex is the easiest option for families and is close to the Citadel’s restaurants and facilities. There is also an adults-only pool for anyone able to carve out some quiet time, as well as several separate pools reserved for guests staying in The Retreat.
The Retreat pool outside our complex was one of the strongest advantages of our second accommodation. It was calmer than the main pool and easy to use for a few hours without feeling as though we needed to plan the entire day around it.
Abama also has access to a small beach below the cliffs. The beach can be reached using the resort’s funicular, which makes the journey part of the experience for children. The resort’s land train covers the same route and runs roughly every 30 minutes, connecting the top reception, the Retreat, and the beach — it’s complimentary for guests, and honestly, half the fun for the kids.
Because the resort is built into a hillside, families should expect some walking and changes in elevation. The grounds are beautiful, but this is not a compact property where every facility is immediately outside your room. The benefit is that no single area feels overwhelmingly busy.
The Spa and Golf Course
Abama works particularly well for a multigenerational trip because family members can separate for a few hours without complicated logistics.
My husband played the resort’s golf course during both stays. The concierge arranged his tee times, transfers, and other details, so golf did not become another errand for us to organize around the children. The course occupies a dramatic section of the estate, with views toward the Atlantic and La Gomera. I cannot personally review the golf, but the fact that he returned on our second trip probably says enough.
We also made time for the spa during both visits. The spa circuit is excellent and deserves more than a rushed treatment squeezed between family activities. A few uninterrupted hours gave us enough time to reset before returning to the pool, dinner, and bedtime routine.
One of the most valuable parts of having Ritz Kids available during our second trip was that we did not always have to ask the grandparents to provide childcare. Our daughter could enjoy an activity she genuinely wanted to attend while the adults took turns using the spa. That arrangement felt less like leaving her behind and more like everyone getting to choose the part of the resort they enjoyed most.
Exploring Beyond Abama
During our first stay, we rented a car because we wanted to see more of Tenerife beyond the resort. Abama’s southwest-coast location makes it possible to combine quiet resort days with several of the island’s most memorable landscapes.
A few stops stood out. We had dinner at Empire Modern British Restaurant & Steak House in Playa de las Américas, which sits inside a genuinely fun mall worth wandering even if you’re not there to eat. We also spent time in Costa Adeje and explored Playa San Juan, a quieter beach town along the same stretch of coast as Abama. One of our favorite casual meals of the whole trip was tacos at Chintumá Taqueria there — although it appears it is no longer in business from a quick google review.
If you have time to venture farther from the resort, the coastline north of Abama toward Los Gigantes and Masca is one of the most dramatic drives on the island and worth adding to the list. The cliffs at Los Gigantes rise 600 meters straight out of the ocean, and boat tours run along the base of them for a closer look from the water. From there, the road climbs into Masca, a tiny mountain village that’s become one of the most photographed spots in the Canary Islands — even a short stop for the view is worth the detour.
For a more active day, the Barranco del Inferno hike in Adeje sits close to Abama and is considered one of the best hikes in south Tenerife. It’s a protected reserve, so access is limited and tickets need to be reserved in advance rather than bought on arrival.
Having a car was worthwhile on that longer visit because it allowed us to alternate between exploring and slower days at Abama. On our five-night return, however, we were perfectly content to remain on the property.
I would make the decision based on the length and purpose of your trip. Tenerife deserves to be explored, but not every family vacation needs to become a sightseeing itinerary. Sometimes the right choice is allowing everyone to settle into the resort and stay there. That said, if it’s your first time on the island, I’d lean toward renting a car regardless of trip length — there’s simply too much of Tenerife worth seeing to stay inside the resort gates the whole time.
Cherished Memories: Is The Ritz-Carlton, Abama Worth It?
Three years is long enough that almost nothing about a family stays the same, and short enough that a resort barely changes at all. That gap is what made this trip worth writing about as one long visit instead of two separate ones.
The koi pond is the throughline. Our daughter ran to it the first time as a two-year-old who still needed to be picked up and carried the rest of the way there. She ran to it again this June as a four-year-old, informing us, quite seriously, that the fish remembered her. Somewhere between those two sprints across the same stretch of garden, she went from a baby who needed us for everything to a kid who wanted five minutes at the fish pond entirely on her own terms — and Abama just happened to be the place we got to watch both versions of her.
Everything else about the trip changed. A different room, a different set of grandparents, a second child in tow who spent most of the week chasing his sister instead of being carried by us. We had the Michelin-starred dinner on one trip and the kid-favorite Italian spot on both. We watched a wish burn into ash above the ocean, and then, days later, watched our daughter treat the selection of a pair of pool floaties with the same seriousness most adults reserve for actual decisions.
None of that is really what makes a resort worth returning to, though. What makes it worth returning to is that it held still long enough for us to notice how much we’d changed against it — and gave us enough reasons, generation to generation, to want to come back and check again.
We’re already looking at flights.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is The Ritz-Carlton, Abama good for families with young children?
Yes. The resort offers spacious accommodations, several pools, family-friendly restaurants, extensive grounds, Ritz Kids programming, and simple activities such as koi feeding that work particularly well for younger children.
Does The Ritz-Carlton, Abama have a Kids Club?
Yes. Ritz Kids is available for children ages four to twelve and is complimentary from 10:00 a.m. until 6:00 p.m. daily. A paid evening extension runs from 6:00 p.m. to midnight, at roughly €8 per hour per child. Children under four may participate alongside a parent but cannot be left independently.
What is the difference between the Citadel and The Retreat?
The Citadel is the resort’s main building and offers the easiest access to breakfast, restaurants, the main pool complex, the lobby, and Ritz Kids. The Retreat is quieter and more private, with a separate pool and included amenities such as casual food, drinks, afternoon snacks, and a daily cocktail hour.
Which breakfast is better at Abama?
Retreat guests can have breakfast at El Mirador, which offers a quieter atmosphere and beautiful ocean views. We preferred the larger breakfast in the Citadel because it provided more variety and more options our children wanted to eat.
Do you need a rental car at The Ritz-Carlton, Abama?
Not necessarily. For a short resort-focused stay, airport transfers and the concierge are sufficient. For a longer visit, a rental car makes it easier to explore Tenerife and provides greater flexibility. I’d especially recommend one for a first visit — there’s a lot of the island worth seeing beyond the resort itself.
How far is The Ritz-Carlton, Abama from the airport?
The resort is approximately 20 minutes by car from Tenerife South Airport.
Is The Ritz-Carlton, Abama worth it?
For families looking for a large luxury resort with excellent dining, strong adult amenities, and enough activities for children, yes. It is particularly well suited to multigenerational trips because children, parents, and grandparents can enjoy different parts of the resort without spending the entire vacation apart.
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